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Backyard putting greens in Lexington

Backyard putting greens in Lexington

True roll, real break, and a green designed around the shots you actually want to practise.

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Home Services Backyard Putting Greens

A backyard green is the one turf project people buy for pleasure rather than to solve a problem. That changes what matters: it has to putt properly. A green that looks good but rolls dead is a very expensive rug.

What makes a green roll true

Three things, in order of importance.

The base

Putting green base work is laser-graded and compacted far more precisely than lawn base. Contours are shaped in the base itself, not the turf. Any inconsistency underneath shows up immediately as a putt that wobbles or dies.

The turf

Green turf is short-pile nylon, typically half an inch, with a stiff blade that stands up under a ball. It is a different material from landscape turf entirely and cannot be substituted.

The infill and rolling

Green speed is set by infill quantity and how the surface is rolled. More sand, faster green. We tune it to what you want and you can adjust it later — adding infill speeds a green up, and it is a straightforward change.

Design decisions

Before we build, worth thinking about:

  • How many cups. Four to six on a mid-sized green gives you varied putts without crowding.
  • Break. A flat green gets dull fast. Genuine undulation is what makes practice useful.
  • Fringe collar. A ring of longer turf lets you chip on and practise the shot you actually miss.
  • Bunkers. Real sand traps are straightforward to build alongside a green and transform short-game practice.
  • Approach area. Some clients want twenty or thirty feet of fairway-height turf to hit into. Worth deciding early since it changes the layout.

Size

Useful greens start around 200 square feet. Between 300 and 500 gives room for real variety in putt length and break, which is where most of our residential greens land. Anything above 600 is approaching a short-game complex and prices accordingly.

Small yards are not disqualified. We have built genuinely good greens in tight urban spaces by using the shape of the yard rather than fighting it.

Maintenance

Brush it occasionally to keep the nap consistent and blow leaves off. That is it. No mowing at three-sixteenths, no topdressing, no watering. The green plays the same in February as it does in June, which is the part most golfers appreciate most.

What it costs

Putting greens run $12 to $24 per square foot, higher than lawn turf because of the laser grading, contouring, cup installation and specialty turf. A 400 square foot green with a fringe collar typically lands between $5,000 and $9,600. Bunkers, extended approaches and lighting are priced separately. Full pricing here.

Free On-Site Estimate

Most estimates are scheduled within 48 hours.

Or call (859) 765-7401 — we answer.

Examples

What it looks like

Backyard putting green with flag
Multi-cup green with fringe collar
Putting green with sand bunker
Green with practice bunker
Backyard golf green with undulation
Contoured green with genuine break
Putting green beside a patio
Green integrated with existing hardscape

Images are representative of the work we do.

Answers

Common questions

How much space do I need for a putting green?
Useful greens start around 200 square feet. Between 300 and 500 gives real variety in putt length and break. Small or awkwardly shaped yards can still work well by designing around the space rather than against it.
Can you match the speed of a real green?
Yes. Green speed is controlled by infill quantity and rolling, and we tune it to your preference. It's also adjustable later — adding infill speeds the green up.
Can you add sand bunkers?
Yes, and they're straightforward to build alongside a green. Real sand traps make short-game practice significantly more useful.
How long does a putting green take to install?
Typically two to four days. The extra time over a lawn goes into laser grading and shaping contours into the base, which is what makes the putts roll true.
Does it need maintenance?
Occasional brushing to keep the nap consistent and clearing leaves. No mowing, watering or topdressing.
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